Syros ...Ermoupolis (the Capital of the Cyclades)

Ermoupolis is the capital and main harbor of Syros .  It is also, without doubt, the capital of all of the Cyclades , as evidenced by its massive Town Hall, the prominent focus of the large main square of Miaoulis , situated in the center of the city.  The Town Hall dates to 1891, having taken 15 years to complete.  Grand Tuscan and Ionian style columns and pediments at the entrance define its facade, while its corners are shaped like towers.  Of special interest is its interior decoration, with frescoes being the main attraction.  The courts governing the Cyclades, and the municipal offices for their administration, are all housed in this impressive building.

Ermoupolis occupies a natural amphitheatrical position encompassing its harbor.  The flat area of the central portion of the town is filled with lovely neoclassical buildings and old mansions, all in a variety of repair and some in disrepair; in fact, the element of disrepair actually seems to add to the character of the city.  Unlike the smaller, charming, and more laidback main towns of the surrounding islands, and in direct contrast to the elegance of its beautiful neoclassical buildings, Ermoupolis is a city that throbs with activity.  Throngs of pedestrians vie with cars and motorbikes for a tiny piece of the narrow streets and pavements.  There’s lots of noise, lots of movement, everybody in a hurry to get somewhere.  The center is, after all, the commercial heart of the island; on the waterfront it has the only gambling casino in the Cyclades ; and its main streets and tiny side streets are packed with shops selling everything you could possibly want or need, including three important “sweet treasures” long associated with the island.  The first is loukoumi (Greek Delight), a jelly-like sweet covered in white icing sugar, and the trademark of Syros .  It is produced in a number of small workshops on the island, and is a tradition passed down through generations.  According to those in the know, the best in comes from Syros .  The second treasure, again for folks with a sweet tooth, is the almond cookie.  These sweets are prepared with crushed almonds, sugar, and rosewater or a liqueur, and are covered with granulated sugar.  Commonly found throughout the Cyclades , the best are said to be found here on Syros .  If your teeth can take any more punishment, then do try the third sweet treasure, the chewy nougat and almond candy, sandwiched between two very fine wafers, and called the halvathopita.

Other remarkable facets of Ermoupolis include numerous magnificent Orthodox churches, the most interesting of which are those dedicated to the Transfiguration, the Dormition of Our Lady, St. Demetrius, the Three Hierarchs, and St. Nicholas.  The Archaeological Museum has a collection of notable finds, and the Municipal Library contains many interesting and rare editions, together with a garden containing the busts of important contributors to the cultural life of the island.  Among the most important buildings, besides the impressive Town Hall, are the Apollo Municipal Theater, a miniature copy of Milan’s La Scala; the Union Hall (Velisaroupolou Mansion), an old private mansion featuring elaborate ceiling and wall paintings; and the First Secondary School, a beautiful two-story building situated behind the Town Hall, with lovely, ornate interiors.